Toilet Repair & Installation
Stop a running, rocking, leaking or clogged toilet, or set a new bowl.
A dripping faucet wastes water, and a leak under the sink can ruin a cabinet. Repairs range from a quick cartridge swap to replacing the faucet or fixing a drain. A faucet that will not shut off or a cabinet filling with water needs the supply valve closed, then a call.
Call, describe the drip or the leak, and a contractor is lined up.
Dry the cabinet and run the faucet. Watch each connection: the supply lines, the shutoff valves, the trap and the drain. A paper towel under each joint shows where moisture starts.
A drip at the spout points to the faucet itself. Water that appears under the sink only when the drain runs points to the trap or the drain connection.
Cartridges, O-rings and aerators are inexpensive. If a faucet is old, pitted or discontinued, replacement may cost about the same as parts and labor.
A new faucet should come with supply lines and shutoff valves in good shape. Ask whether those are included.
Parts are usually small compared with labor, and these things shape the quote.
Ask whether the faucet is supplied by the contractor or by you.
Hard water clogs aerators with white crust, which shows up as weak flow. Soaking the aerator in vinegar often restores it.
Mineral scale also seizes shutoff valves under the sink, so test them before an emergency.
The small valves under the sink seize up with age and mineral scale. A valve that leaks around the stem or will not turn needs replacing.
A working shutoff is cheap insurance. Test each valve this month, since a stuck one makes every future repair harder.
Hose bibs can drip from the stem or crack in a cold snap. Replacement is usually quick if the shutoff behind the wall works.
See backflow prevention for devices that protect the supply when a hose is attached.
A drip usually comes from a worn cartridge or washer. Low flow often means a clogged aerator, which hard water scale can block. Water under the cabinet may come from supply lines, the trap or the faucet base.
Empty the cabinet, put a dry towel under the pipes and look for the first wet spot. That detail helps a plumber arrive with the right parts.
A faucet with a cheap part failing is worth fixing. One with a corroded body, a loose mount or discontinued parts is better replaced. Ask the plumber what the parts cost against a new faucet.
Turn the supply valves under the sink off and on once a year so they do not seize.
Stop a running, rocking, leaking or clogged toilet, or set a new bowl.
Clear a seized disposal, fix a leak or install a new one.
Pinpoint concealed water loss in walls, floors or buried pipe using listening gear and pressure tests.
A worn cartridge, washer or valve seat is the usual cause. Replacing the part usually stops the drip.
Close the small valve under the sink or the main valve, then call. A failed cartridge or valve is common.
Scale in the aerator, a partly closed valve or a clogged supply line may be the cause. Soaking the aerator is a quick test.
If parts are cheap and the faucet is sound, yes. If it is pitted or the parts are scarce, replacement may be better.
Close the small stop valve under the sink, or the main valve if that one is stuck. Then call the 24/7 line. A worn cartridge or a failed stem is a common cause and often quick to fix.
Scale can clog aerators and shorten the life of cartridges. A softener helps.
Run the tap with a towel below and note where the first drop appears.
Close the valve, then call the line. A dispatcher will match you with a contractor.
Service area centered on Goodyear and nearby Maricopa County cities.