Leak Detection
Pinpoint concealed water loss in walls, floors or buried pipe using listening gear and pressure tests.
Replacing a shower or tub changes the valve, the drain and the walls around them. The plumbing behind the tile decides whether the new one leaks or lasts.
Call to plan the work, and a contractor is lined up.
The valve behind the wall controls temperature and flow. Replacing the trim can fix a drip, while replacing the valve body means opening the wall. A pressure-balancing valve helps prevent sudden temperature changes.
Ask whether the quote covers the valve body, the trim and access to the wall.
A shower pan or tub needs a drain at the right height and a trap that vents properly. A bad slope causes standing water, and a bad connection leaks into the subfloor.
Plumbers should test the drain with water before tile or a surround goes in.
A swap of trim is small. A conversion is a project, and these things shape the cost.
Ask who handles tile, drywall and painting.
On slab homes, drain work may mean cutting concrete to change a drain location. Ask about the cost of moving a drain before choosing a layout.
Scale builds up in shower valves and heads, so cartridges wear sooner in hard water.
A tub-to-shower conversion removes the tub, builds a pan and relocates the drain. A new tub can use the existing drain if the position fits.
Ask about the pan type, the waterproofing and who does the tile.
A pan should hold water for a test period before finishing. Ask for the test, and ask what the warranty covers.
If water already damaged the floor, see water damage restoration before closing walls.
Swapping a tub for a shower, or the reverse, moves drains and valves. Decide on the layout, valve type and showerhead before demolition. Rough-in depth for the valve must match the trim you plan to use.
Ask who handles tile, waterproofing and the final seal. A shower that leaks behind the wall may not show it for months.
Decide early between a pressure balanced and a thermostatic valve. Check that the drain is sized for your fixture and that the floor can carry a filled tub.
After installation, run the shower for ten minutes and look for water at the ceiling below and in adjacent rooms.
Ask where the valve can be reached if it fails. An access panel behind a tub wall saves a lot of demolition years later. Seal grout and caulk joints on schedule to keep water out of the wall.
Pinpoint concealed water loss in walls, floors or buried pipe using listening gear and pressure tests.
Connect a bidet seat or standalone fixture with a proper supply and shutoff.
Stop a running, rocking, leaking or clogged toilet, or set a new bowl.
Temperature swings, drips and hard handle turning are common signs. The cartridge may be the only part that needs swapping.
Yes, in many homes. It needs a new pan or base, a drain at the right location and waterproofing.
Often, on slab homes. Ask the contractor to quote it separately.
A valve swap takes hours. A conversion takes days, with curing time for the pan and tile.
Yes. Close the fixture's stop or the main if water is escaping, then call. New installs are done in daytime.
Often yes. It involves the drain, the valve and the wall surround. Ask about timing.
It depends on the scope. Ask for a schedule that includes curing time for tile and sealant.
Call the line, describe the work, and a dispatcher will match you with a contractor.
Service area centered on Goodyear and nearby Maricopa County cities.