Water Heater Repair
Track down cold showers, leaks, noisy tanks and failed heater parts.
Finding water under the water heater is alarming, and in a garage or closet it can spread fast. The first move is to stop the water, then work out where it comes from.
By the Goodyear Express Plumbing team ·
Close the cold water shutoff valve on the pipe above the heater. For an electric unit, switch off its breaker. For a gas unit, turn the control to off or pilot. A heater that keeps heating with no water supply can be damaged and is a hazard.
Then put towels or a wet vacuum to work, move stored items off the floor and photograph the area. If water is near an outlet or the electrical panel, stay away and tell the dispatcher so they treat it as urgent.
Water on the floor does not always mean the tank has failed. Common sources include the cold and hot connections at the top, the temperature and pressure relief valve and its discharge pipe, the drain valve near the bottom and condensation on a cold tank in humid weather. A pan under the heater can also hold water from a nearby pipe.
Dry the base, wrap a dry paper towel around each fitting and check which one gets wet first. That simple step shows if the problem is a part or the tank.
A loose or worn connection, a dripping drain valve or a relief valve that is opening because of pressure can usually be repaired. A relief valve that discharges often can point to thermal expansion in a closed system, a problem solved with an expansion tank. See water heater repair for what a visit includes.
Never plug a relief valve or its discharge pipe. It is the last safety device if the tank overheats.
If water seeps from under the jacket or from the seam at the bottom, the steel inside has likely corroded through. That cannot be patched. Tanks do not last forever, and Arizona's hard water speeds scale and rust on heating elements and the tank floor.
The sound answer then is replacement. Our page on water heater replacement lists the choices, from like for like tanks to heat pump models. Ask the installer about a drain pan and a pan drain, which protect a garage floor next time.
Dry everything, then note where moisture returns first.
| Wet spot | Meaning | Typical remedy |
|---|---|---|
| Top pipe connections | Loose or worn fitting | Tighten or swap the connector |
| Relief valve or its pipe | Pressure or heat issue | Inspect, maybe add an expansion tank |
| Drain valve at the base | Worn valve | Replace the valve |
| Beneath the tank jacket | Tank corroded through | Replace the heater |
Tanks in hard water collect sediment that sits on the bottom and bakes under the burner or element. A sacrificial anode rod is meant to corrode first and protect the tank. Once it is used up, the tank wall takes the hit.
Flushing the tank once a year and checking the anode every few years can add life. Rumbling noises and rust colored hot water are signs that the tank needs attention.
A tank near the end of its typical life is often not worth repairing, because the next leak is likely close behind. A younger heater with a failed part is a better repair. Ask the contractor to explain both paths and the reason for each.
If you are weighing a switch to a tankless model, read tankless water heater service for what maintenance it needs in hard water.
Many Valley water heaters sit in garages. A leak can run under a wall into a room, so check the adjoining space. Install a pan with a drain line, and consider a water sensor that sounds an alarm. If water has reached walls or flooring, see water damage restoration for drying steps.
If the heater has to be replaced, ask about the size that suits your household, the venting and clearances in your garage or closet, the permit and whether the quote includes new supply connectors, a relief valve and a drain pan. Ask how the old tank leaves the property.
Also ask about an expansion tank. Many homes have a closed system where heated water has nowhere to go, and the extra pressure punishes the tank and the relief valve. Planning for it on the new installation avoids repeating the leak.
Finally, ask when the first maintenance should happen. A flush each year and an anode check at a few years in are small tasks that protect an expensive appliance, especially in water as hard as ours.
A cold tank in humid weather can sweat, especially after a monsoon storm, and a garage heater near a cold supply pipe may drip from the pipe. A few drops that dry up with the weather are not a leak. A pool of water that returns after drying is.
Wipe the tank, wait an hour and check again.
A technician will look at the connections, the relief valve, the drain valve and the tank. They will test pressure, check the venting on a gas unit and look at the gas or electrical connections. They will explain whether the unit can be repaired.
Expect a clear recommendation and the reasons behind it.
A heater that leaks near electric parts or gas controls is more serious. Stay clear of wet electrical equipment. If you smell gas around the heater, leave the building and call 911 or the gas utility from outside before doing anything else.
Shut the heater off and close its cold supply. You can leave the house supply open for cold water.
A drip from the relief valve or a fitting is less urgent than a leaking tank, but still needs attention soon.
It varies with water quality and care. Hard water shortens life, so ask about flushing and anode checks.
Ask before the visit so removal is part of the quote.
Track down cold showers, leaks, noisy tanks and failed heater parts.
Replace a worn-out tank with the right capacity, fuel type and placement.
Descale, troubleshoot error codes and repair or swap on-demand heaters.
Find and test your main shutoff before a leak forces the issue.
A bang when a valve closes is water hammer. See what causes it and how it is quieted.
A weak stream at one tap and a weak stream at all of them have different explanations.
Phone the 24/7 line and say what you see. The dispatcher will find a nearby contractor.
Service area centered on Goodyear and nearby Maricopa County cities.